By Bill St. John, Special to Tribune Newspapers
November 18, 2012
Traditional food and wine pairing advice considered eggs to be the great bugbear to any successful match. Their viscous fat, the way it coated the palate, precluded any wine getting through to be tasted or appreciated, it was thought.
But that advice was French-based, where eggs were often only softly cooked, as in omelets, or used raw or nearly so in sauces such as mayonnaise or hollandaise. Eggs set nearly firm, as in this recipe, don't present the same problem. The fat is part of a larger whole, so a crisp, cleansing red or white does more than adequate cleanup.
The food: Skillet spinach "quiche"
Cook 4 strips bacon in an oven-safe skillet until crispy; transfer to paper towels. Add 1/2 red onion, chopped, to skillet; cook, stirring, until golden. Stir in 1 box (10 ounces) frozen chopped spinach, thawed, water squeezed out; heat. In a bowl, beat together 8 eggs, 1/2 cup cream, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, and pepper to taste. Crumble bacon; stir it in. Stir mixture into skillet. Cook over medium heat until eggs are set at the edges. Transfer to broiler; broil until eggs are set. Makes: 4 servings
2010 Tormaresca Fiano Roycello, Salento, Italy: A grape known better in Campania than in Puglia, fiano still makes for lean, "green" white wine, tightly wound with squeegee-like acidity. $18-$20
2010 Beckmen Vineyards Cuvee Le Bec, Santa Ynez, California: Rhone-style blend of four red grapes for plush texture highlighting dark red fruits, with mildly chalky tannins, snappy finish; great aromatics. $18
Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe En Rama Fino Sherry: A special fino, unfiltered, unfined, drawn from the center of the cask; powerful, incisive, direct, in both aroma and texture; fresh-cut bread and almonds made diaphanous. $30
— Bill St. John, special to Tribune Newspapers