Wines for the grand feast
With many flavors at play on Thanksgiving, a guiding hand is welcome
"And for me, I am going to drink the baby phat Pierre Yves Morey-Colin Puligny Montrachet premier cru 'Ancengnieres,'" says Shebnem Ince, wine director at The Gage and Henri restaurants in Chicago. (Zbigniew Bzdak/Chicago Tribune)
My husband gets a current vintage of Weingut Donnhoff riesling kabinett. He likes it fresh, sweet and crisp, which has me wondering why he stays with me.
And for me, I am going to drink the baby phat Pierre Yves Morey-Colin Puligny Montrachet premier cru 'Ancengnieres.'
If I die the next day, at least I will be happy.
Master sommelier, Justin Vineyards, Paso Robles, Calif.
My Thanksgiving Day recommendations tend toward American wine as it is an American holiday. Give me some direct and refreshing fruit. This isn't the meal for wines with mere intellectual appeal.
I mean, this meal is a series of contradictions and overwhelming, even combative flavors; and lots of fat, lots of salt, lots of sugar. Perhaps it makes sense to cut through all of that, but I'd rather amplify them and surround all of them with rich flavors.
Pinot noir does that best; it's full-flavored, with a rich delivery. Bethel Heights Estate 2010; the more subtle Adelsheim 2010. I also am most fond of Wind Gap syrah from the Sonoma Coast; and I would not refuse a bottle of Au Bon Climat pinot noir from Jim Clendenen's estate, nor a Qupe syrah Hillside Select from Bien Nacido.
Whites with a little 'sweetness' are best; a richer pinot gris, maybe, or a viognier with a slight residual sugar. The little more roundness, fullness and fatness thematically goes along with the menu.
Bill St. John has been writing and teaching about wine for more than 30 years. If your wine store does not carry these wines, ask for one similar in style and price.