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When ice tea gave way to wine for ladies luncheons oh so many years ago, no one could understand why the then-ubiquitous California chardonnay wasn't tasty alongside the (still ubiquitous) midday salad and its vinaigrette dressing. It was the acidity in the dressing — and the lack of it in the wine.
Acid in food requires acid in wine; the two play off each other and, strange but true, soften one another. This recipe is fairly far along the acid axis (vinegar, tomatoes) and whether you choose a light red or a stout white, make sure either has a solid spine of acidity too.
The food: Spicy smothered pork
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over high heat; add 1 small onion, sliced. Stir-fry until wilted. Add 3 cloves garlic, minced; stir-fry, 1 minute. Transfer onion and garlic to a plate. Season 4 boneless pork chops with salt; brown in skillet. Transfer to a plate. Reduce heat to medium; add 3 tablespoons paprika and the onions and garlic; cook 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in 1 can (15 ounces) tomatoes. Cover; cook 3 minutes. Return pork to pan; cover with sauce. Cook until done.
Makes: 4 servings
The wines
2011 Yalumba Viognier, Eden Valley, South Australia: A major complaint against viognier is its low acidity, but that's not the case here; deft extraction of skin solids add a refreshing, cleansing edge; add on aromas and tastes of ginger, mint and anise for more super-delish. $15-$20
2011 Folie a Deux Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast: Really terrific, tangy, squeegeelike acidity frames this medium-bodied, cherry-filled pinot; scents of wood and forest add complexity. $20
2009 Chateau Bousquette Prestige, St. Chinian, France: A blend of organic syrah and grenache from the Languedoc, with solid crisp acidity at the finish, along with supple tannins and a lengthy shadow of dark red fruit flavors. $25
— Bill St. John, special to Tribune Newspapers