The Review: Culina at the Four Seasons Beverly Hills

The new hotel restaurant is no longer a tribute to overwrought decorating, plush carpeting and ceiling-high flower arrangements. The smarmy maitre d', servers in house livery and dishes flambéed tableside are all long gone. Now that hotel restaurants are feeling the economic crunch, hotels are busy reinventing their dining rooms in hopes of attracting the world outside the lobby for dinner.

By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Restaurant Critic

May 20, 2010