Russ Parsons, The Times' California Cook, has issued a reminder: Grilling can still be a simple pleasure.

Don't let those massive and ubiquitous stainless steel barbecue grills fool you, because a plain old kettle grill fired by a charcoal chimney will give you just the heat you need for delectable, moist results. And a grill basket will keep smaller foods, such as tuna steaks and vegetables, from slipping through the grate. And you can flip the foods all at once for more even cooking.