Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality.
****: Outstanding on every level.
**: Very good.
No star: Poor to satisfactory.
Location: 408 S. Main St., Los Angeles, (213) 687-8808, http://www.BacoMercat.com.
Price: Dishes, $6 to $22; bäco and coca, $9 to $12; dessert, $7.
Details: Open 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday for lunch and 6 to 11 p.m. for dinner, and a 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday morning "hair of the dog" brunch. Corkage, $20. Street or lot parking.