2-STAR DINING REVIEW

Putting the accent on Italian
Bright idea

Bright idea: Contemporary in its unfussy look and its approach to food, Moderno has the chops to last long enough to make its name an inside joke. (Chris Sweda/Chicago Tribune)

Phil Vettel Restaurant critic

July 19, 2012
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Strongly recommended evenings
Noise: Conversation-challenged
Other: Wheelchair accessible; valet parking

Ratings key:
Four Stars: Outstanding
Three Stars: Excellent
Two Stars: Very good
One Star: Good
No stars: Unsatisfactory

Reviews are based on no fewer than two visits. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.

pvettel@tribune.com

Twitter @philvettel
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