Beyond the usual 'burger bar' label

Appreciating Three Aces in Little Italy requires two approaches: one for the burger bar identity locals know it for, and the other, a surprisingly refined Nightwood-esque restaurant waiting to be embraced by greater Chicago. The first squares with this column's mission of eating cheaply. The second makes a case for spending a few more dollars for an under-the-radar chef with an emerging voice. That said, I'd still prefer you read both.

By Kevin Pang, Chicago Tribune reporter

January 24, 2013